First presented in 1932 with the Reference 96, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. The groundbreaking reference set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brands’ approaches to classy men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus design philosophy, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, ‘less is more’ approach to watch design.
In the years since 1932, Patek has released dozens of Calatrava references, each with its own idiosyncrasies. Almost all share the underlying DNA of the 96, prioritizing subtle elegance above all else.
In 1985, Patek Philippe was looking to distinguish itself in a post quartz crisis era of the luxury watch market. Patek enlisted help from a brilliant Geneva-based ad man— Renee Bittel— to help Patek define itself for a new customer base. Bittel said Patek Philippe needed a symbol for the brand— something that would capture the classic Patek aesthetic and come to represent the brand. Patek President Philippe Stern asked Bittel what this would look like, and legend has it Bittel drew what would later become the 3919, another Bauhaus design, this time incorporating a hobnail bezel and printed Roman numerals.
The hobnail bezel first emerged in 1934 on the reference 96D and Bittel recognized that its distinctive look was eye-catching, and classically Patek. Coupling the hobnail with a cream dial and black printed numerals, the 3919 quickly became the image of Patek Philippe. Today, the 3919 represents one of the best values in neo-vintage Patek Philippe.
Let’s say you love the look of the 3919, but want something with automatic winding everyday utility. That’s when you explore the Reference 5120. The 5120 strikes a lot of ideal balances. A bit larger than the 3919, the 5120 measures a comfortable 35mm. With its broad lugs it wears really well today. Additionally, it’s outfitted with a caliber 240 micro rotor movement. The same movement base is used on the 3940 and the 5110, two famous Patek references that both cost many multiples of the 5120. This piece strikes the ideal balance for value for money, wearability, and historical prominence.