Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to enlist the help of an English designer named David Penney to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.
Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Penney conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.
This piece, a Reference 6000R-001, isn’t your run-of-the-mill Calatrava and features a distinctive dial design that was cooly received at launch, but has recently come to be appreciated and sought-after by the enthusiast community at large. With a 37mm 18K rose gold case offering polished finishing, a signed crown at 3 o'clock and a date corrector micro-pusher at 10 o'clock and a sapphire sapphire crystal, the 6000R is powered by the self-winding Caibre 240, an exquisitely finished micro rotor automatic visible beneath its sapphire exhibition back. Its sunburst brown dial features white-printed Arabic indices, a central minute track, and an off-center small seconds display fitted between the 4 and 5 o'clock positions. Time is read via a gold stick handset with a third red-tipped pointer hand indicating the date on a printed outer track.
Outfitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with an 18K rose gold deployant clasp, this piece is accompanied by its inner and outer box.
Traditional Calatrava aesthetics were thrown out the window on this one, and its taken awhile for the market to embrace the bold styling — but the recently released Reference 6007 series Calatrava (sans outer date track or micro-rotor movement) indicate Patek themselves are committed to the bold design language going forward, and we're here for it!